Articles from 2002 - 2004

The articles following, with different photos, are published in Gastronome, the national publication of La Chaîne.

Articles typically appear appear in Gastronome 6 - 10 months after an event.

You can see a selection of photos and menus for each event in  Galleries/Menus

Paul Winter, Ph.D., Chargé de Presse Provincial

The Exultant Sultan at Tallula's

The Triangle Bailliage was gratified, entirely justified, and ultimately edified by the event of November 21, 2004 at Tallula's in Chapel Hill. It celebrated epicurean works of the Turks, including Turkish beverages, at the establishment of Demir Williford and was aptly titled "The Exultant Sultan". A traditional course progression was followed beginning with cold and warm mezzes and ending with a main course and dessert.

                Many of the items in Turkish cuisine are similar to those in Greek, Lebanese and other Mediterranean cuisines, having been brought to Turkey through the influence of the former empire. Arguably, some of these dishes have an additional layer of sophistication in their ingredients, preparation, or presentation, reflecting the relative affluence of Turkish society. For example, the Kaseri cheese from the Kars province was rich and aged while the feta cheese was softer with a higher fat content than would be typical for Greek feta. The boncha crep, etli karalahana and istim kebabi all feature wraps around savory spiced meat or seafood preparations. The baklava was also a bit richer and less sweet than its Greek counterpart.

                The warm red tones on the wall, soft glow of colored lanterns, and hanging carpets give Tallula's a hospitable foreign atmosphere that provided the perfect backdrop for serving openers with the traditional Turkish beverage, raki. Raki is distilled from raisins, flavored with anise, served chilled and similar to Greek ouzo or French pastis. When diluted 2-1 with water it acquires a cloudy appearance and is appropriately called "lion's milk" in deference to its alcoholic kick. Turkey is one of the world's largest grape growers but until recently there has been little high quality winemaking. The spread of modern commerce and the influx of foreign tourists and capital have created better wines, one of which we sampled. The Kavaklideré red wine made from the öküzgözü grape was medium bodied, fruity, and food friendly bearing a resemblance to American wines made from hybrid grapes. It proved a good match to savory flavors of etli karalahana.

Proprietor Demir used the gastronomic discussion to recognize the contributions of chef Mustafa Karaca and the service staff to the success of the event that ended with the presentation of the traditional recognition award by Bailli Mel Levine.

Oriental Eclectic at Fins

                On October 31, 2004 the Triangle Bailliage convened at Fins in Raleigh where Proprietor and Chef William d'Auvray performed his third carefree and flaw-free tour de force for members and guests. The theme for this occasion was "Oriental Eclectic" designed to allow the chef to display the innovative Japanese and French influenced fusions for which he is so well known.

                Though the event was not a Halloween costume party, Triangle members displayed a characteristic sense of humor with some appearing in costume anyway. Fins co-proprietor Maître de Table Restaurateur Tom Gipson arrived in chauffeur's cap at the wheel of a 1946 Rolls Royce from his collection of antique cars. Chevalier John Ward appeared as Phantom of the Opera while Chevalier Bryan Guarnieri appeared as a race driver dressed in a yellow fire suit.

                Chef d'Auvray became interested in cooking as a child in the Philippines, apprenticing at Chaya Brasserie in Los Angeles and the Ritz Carlton in Washington, DC. He credits his time at Chaya Brasserie for his appreciation of Japanese culinary discipline but his own creativity has made Fins a sustained success. Part of that creativity involves sourcing uncommon ingredients for his fusions. His selections included small conch from Turks and Caicos; the farmable brackish water game fish barramundi; matsutake and hoshemeiji mushrooms; and beef tenderloins from wagyu cattle, the strain used for "Kobe beef".  The French side of his cooking was displayed in the soufflé preparation and the use of eggs, butter, and roasted garlic in sauces.

                A mystery wine divined by the blind tasting skills of the diners is a frequent occurrence at Triangle events and for the only time in recent history, Vice Echanson Jack Kocak befuddled the group with an Oremus Late Harvest Aszu 2000. The wine had similarities to both Riesling and gewürztraminer late harvest wines but its freshness kept anyone from making the association with Hungarian tokaji and the furmint grape.

                Proprietor and General Manager Lisa d'Auvray joined the culinary discussion and recognition presentation led by Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Walter Royal and Bailli Mel Levine. We left wondering only when our fourth opportunity to sample Chef d'Auvray's talent will happen.

A Farewell to Qualms at Treyburn

The writings of Ernest Hemingway provided the theme for the first Triangle Bailliage event of the 2004-2005 season, an Induction held at the Treyburn Country Club. "A Farewell to Qualms: Autumnal Euphoria on the Veranda" was a fitting description for the creative, flavorful, and substantial menu prepared by Chef Joseph Lumbrazo. The menu text was accompanied by quotes selected from various Hemingway writings by Chevalier John Ward who noted that Hemingway's writings made frequent reference to food and wine.

Chambellan Provincial John Miller performed the Induction ceremony while wielding with precision an extraordinarily long Imperial German Artillery Sword. Alan Swanstrom and Don Davis were inducted as Chevalier. Professional members Adrian Taylor and Sarah Warden received their ribbons as Maître de Table Restaurateur and Professionnel du Vin, respectively. Jack Kocak was recognized as the new Vice Echanson. Two awards were also presented. They were a Bronze Star of Excellence presented to Vice Chargé de Presse Paul Winter and an Officier Commandeur award to Founding Bailli Mel Levine recognizing his thirty years of consecutive membership. It was noted that Mel is young enough to become eligible for an award not yet created, the one for fifty years of membership! Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Walter Royal passed out truffled popcorn, an unusual treat that could be made for movie nights at home.

The gorgeous early fall evening was perfect for serving dinner on the elevated patio. Chef Lumbrazo's courses enticed the diners with a masterful display of elements ranging from artful presentation and flavors married with precision, to whimsical and fun items such as the Guinness sorbet and glazed pork belly. A family of deer browsing for their dinner in the nearby woods added to the ambiance. The final course of the evening, baked Alaska served by candlelight, was an elegant culinary conclusion to a spectacular event.

            Newly appointed Vice Echanson Jack Kocak commented on the successful food and wine matches that had received extra effort at the tasting dinner while Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Walter Royal led the culinary discussion.  Chef Lumbrazo introduced his staff while accepting a well-earned first Chaîne recognition award for Treyburn.

Reverence for Decadence at Angus Barn

                The Angus Barn in Raleigh, North Carolina was the site for the last event of the 2003-2004 season on June 13, 2004.  Maître de Table Restaurateur Van Eure and her staff hosted  "A Summer Night of Reverence for Southern Decadence", a theme carried out in both the setting and all menu items.

                The setting included table decorations by Miss Betty that covered everything from pink napkin roses and elegant chair covers to flower arrangements that included items found in local gardens. Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Walter Royal, executive chef of the Angus Barn, provided white wicker lounging furniture for the indoor verandah decorated with blue hydrangeas and orchestrated a menu that included many traditional southern items, all done in a style more decadent than one would encounter in southern home cooking. Southern ingredients that got the decadent treatment included soft shell crabs, black grouper, sausage, Catawba melon, blackberries, dandelion, beef tenderloin, green tomatoes and huckleberries.  The tasty results were enough to make some of the former Yankees at the event wish they had moved south when they were a lot younger. Even Walter's sartorial choice matched the theme. Instead of black tie or chef's whites, his choice for the evening was traditional farmer's overalls (with decorations).

                Vice Conseiller Culinaire Henk Schuitemaker, wine and beverage manager for the Angus Barn, ensured that the beverages also held true to the theme, beginning with a selection of cocktails that included mint juleps, Lynchburg lemonade and orange blossoms. The wine selection included a Saint-Emilion Bordeaux unique to the Angus Barn, that was selected for importation by Henk during a foraging expedition to France. The Clos St-Julien was a good representative of the excellent 2000 vintage and though capable of many years of cellar life, made a good match to the beef tenderloin stuffed with lobster.

                Executive Sous Chef Jimmy Alfano and Chef Sam Diminick joined the service staff and management for the presentation of several gifts and awards that recognized not only the high quality service and menu at the event but also the many contributions that the Angus Barn has made to our Chaine bailliage.

Can Do at Nana's

                The Triangle Bailliage of North Carolina, being CANtankerously inclined, CANvened on March 28, 2004 for a vacuum packed tribute to the unheralded, TINacious origins of CANtemporary AmeriCAN gastronomy. The CANclave was held at Nana's in Durham, an establishment of Maître Rôtisseur and Chef CANspirator, Scott Howell.  He provided a series of unusual dishes, each inspired by a well-known CANned food and matched to wine served under the supervision of sommelier Phillip Sherman.

                Festivities began with CANapés under the watchful eyes of the fantastic figures in the artwork on Nana's walls. They included a wistful tribute to StarKist, tuna tartare with caviar cream, and fried oysters on Ritz, honoring TINned smoked oysters. The CANcept for the soup course, porcini soup with cinnamon, was based on Campbell's cream of mushroom soup. Through a bit of chiCANery and even though cephalopods are not CANtained in the real item, an octopus tentacle terrine inspired by the wham of Spam followed. The third CANcoction was grilled sardines stuffed with fennel, CANtradicting the common belief that CANned sardines CANnot be CANceived as a relation to gourmet fare. Then by CANsent of the diners, the traditional Triangle vertical intermezzo CANtinued the CANviviality while giving all a chance to stretch their legs.  The fourth CANtribution, squab noodle soup, brought memories of CANned chicken noodle soup. A fifth inCANtation, veal cheek bourgignon, aspired to replicate Dinty Moore's beef stew. The CANclusion in adulation of CANed fruit salad, was rhubarb and coconut ice cream.

                Linda Leithe who donned an apron and couldn't be CANvinced to give it up observed the CANcerted efforts of sous chef Louis Botta's kitchen staff. Discussion led by Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Walter Royal noted that at least a few members of the Chaine might have been inspired to higher gastronomic achievements after exposure to recipes based on CANned foods that were so common in the 50s and 60s.  Bailli Mel Levine CANgratulated the entire staff of Nana's for another event well done while presenting the traditional plaque and CANcluding the evening.

Hurrah for Araujo!

            On Saturday March 13, 2004, when many North Carolina residents are consumed by basketball's "March madness", Triangle Bailliage L'Ordre Mondial members gathered at the home of Vice Chargê de Missions Stan Robboy for a very special wine tasting.  Vice Echanson Hon. Jack Kocak, a recent member of the Triangle Bailliage who relocated his extensive wine collection from Tampa, Florida, generously provided an eight vintage, vertical selection of the highly regarded Araujo Eisele Vineyard cabernet sauvignon from Napa Valley for the event. The tasting began with the rare 1991 vintage (only 860 cases produced) and included the 1993-1999 vintages (typical production about 2500 cases).

            The Araujo Eisele Vineyard is located just east of Calistoga and was originally planted in the 1880's. Cabernet sauvignon was first planted in 1971 with help from Ridge Vineyard's Paul Draper. From 1975 until 1991, Joseph Phelps produced a series of Eisele Vineyard cabernets.  In 1990, Bart and Daphne Araujo purchased the property and upgraded its facilities to support their goal of producing high quality estate-bottled wines.  Their first vintage was produced in 1991.  Today, Araujo Estate produces cabernet sauvignon, syrah, sauvignon blanc, and viognier with the Eisele Vineyard designation under the supervision of winemaker Francoise Peschon, assisted by famed enologist Michel Rolland. Other estate products include honey, olive oil and grappa.

                Despite the combined distractions of good company, fine wine and food by Sage & Swifts, one of the Triangle region's best caterers, detailed tasting notes were taken. The first vintage (1991, 100% cabernet sauvignon) is still youthful and holds well in the glass though showing a slight brick color on the edge. Later vintages include small amounts of cabernet franc and petite verdot in addition to cabernet sauvignon. Many of the tasting notes include comments about the resemblance to fine Paulliacs with complex black fruit, mocha, and mineral flavors. Favorite vintages of this tasting proved to be 1995,1997, and 1999.

Exotic Tapas at Bakus

                Bakus on Ninth Street in Durham, NC was the site of our first 2004 event on January 18.  Owned by Triangle Bailliage member Adrian Taylor, Bakus is the latest addition to a group of restaurants that makes Ninth Street Durham's "dining destination" with a place to suit just about every taste.  The theme for the event, Spanish country tapas, was selected to stave off withdrawal symptoms and post party depression from the holiday season.

                Bakus is intended to provide an "authentic as possible on this side of the Atlantic" Spanish and Mediterranean feeling.  It has an extensive Spanish regional wine list, hours that promote late dining and community connections that include live music, an art wall and fundraisers.  The menu represents Spanish cultures from Europe and the Americas with many items derived from family recipes. 

                Courses for the event represented several Spanish regions including Andalusia, Rioja and Valencia. Wines reflected both traditional and new Spanish winemaking.  The Segura Viudas Brut served with ceviche and fried stuffed olives was a particular favorite of many, its abundant fruitiness and clean finish being a pleasant contrast to the typically crisper flavors of French champagnes. The red wines reflected the emergence of newer Spanish regions making wine intended for export. These wines often contain cabernet sauvignon, a relatively new variety in Spain, and can be good bargains in the United States. A white albarino representing Spain's ubiquitous food friendly white wines was also served.

                Vice Conseiller Walter Royal and Adrian Taylor led the gastronomic discussion. Walter enthusiastically noted the successful blend of authentic continental and Latin American influences as well as the fact that he had previously taken advantage of the late dining opportunity after finishing his own executive chef duties elsewhere. He also noted that passion for the food and traditions was obvious. Adrian discussed the relationship of the courses to family recipes, acknowledging the contributions of Chef Alejandro Segura, Dania Gonzales, Betsy Claudia and Ruben Rojas.

Bailli Mel Levine joined the discussion to present the first Chaîne recognition award to Bakus and to receive a toast to his own birthday. Adrian Taylor will be officially inducted in May 2004 as Maître de Table Restaurateur and Triangle members look forward to his continued contributions to our local culinary scene.

Homage to Burgundy at Enoteca Vin

    On the warm afternoon of November 23, 2003, the Triangle Bailliage gathered for its third event of the season at Enoteca Vin on Glenwood Avenue in Raleigh. The late fall afternoon was so pleasant that many of the early arrivals had their first glass of wine while seated on the covered patio before coming inside for the planned festivities, An Epic Epicurean Homage to Burgundy by Chef Ashley Christensen. 

    Enoteca Vin has helped make the Glenwood Avenue area one of the dining hotspots of the Triangle. It is one of several restaurants that have located there in the past few years and there are now enough restaurants in the area to make Glenwood Avenue a “dining destination”.  The wine list at Enoteca Vin benefits from owner Chrish Peele’s other enterprise, the Carolina Wine Company, a shop known for its emphasis on Burgundy, unusual selections including some outstanding bargains, and internet marketing.  The restaurant has a long list of wines served by the glass and both the menu and wine list change regularly, making Enoteca Vin an excellent choice for those who enjoy variety.

    Chef Christensen’s style features simple ingredients carefully prepared and garnished. The courses of Homage to Burgundy each demonstrated her approach.  The posh squash soup had a reduced cream and Brie drizzle complementing flavors from butternut roasted with olive oil and combined with yellow onions.  The duck comfit was prepared from cured whole duck roasted in duck fat then baked for four hours.  The praiseworthy lamb started as a braise-worthy shank cooked in a chicken stock with spices for six hours before deboning for final preparation. The colorfully complex dessert featured poached pear wrapped in filo served on brilliant red wine syrup, accompanied by crème fraîche ice cream.

    Chef Christensen is both young and new to the Triangle gastronomic scene but her efforts at Enoteca Vin have already made her and the restaurant many fans. She also finds time to use her athletic ability as a bicyclist to raise money for charity despite the amount of effort required to be both chef and general manager of the restaurant.  The Homage to Burgundy event was so well received that four of the guests attending the event asked to become members and will be formally inducted later in the season. The event ended with Chef Christensen accepting the customary recognition award from Bailli Mel Levine.

Halloween at The Homestead

    The Homestead resort in Hot Springs, VA hosted the first-ever Chaîne event sponsored by all four North Carolina Bailliages; Triangle, Charlotte, Greensboro, and Asheville.  From Oct 31 until Nov 2, members and guests participated in two dinners and an induction while enjoying the many recreational activities available.  Started in 1766 and expanded many times since, the Homestead is a huge, old style resort hotel on 15,000 acres offering everything from spas and golf to shooting and riding, in addition to the hot springs for which the nearby town is named.  Many arrived early or stayed late to enjoy more of the available choices.

    Formal activities started Friday night with a costume buffet dinner organized by our friends from Charlotte.  Looking at the photos in the Gallery will convince you that we are not a bashful crowd- what you conclude after that is up to you!  Triangle's own Pam Whitney won the prize for best costume in her Carmen Miranda outfit that included a homemade "fruit salad" hat.  The Charlotte folks provided an assortment of French wines for dinner including red and white Burgundies and Bordeaux. 

    During Saturday afternoon, a tour of the Homestead kitchen was conducted by Executive Chef Josef Schelch.  A kitchen that can provide several thousand meals each day is a true production operation with many steps required to ensure quality and timely presentation to diners.  We toured everything from the bakery and butcher shop to the line and checker stand learning how the system works.  We also heard about what it takes to successfully serve 700 dinners in the middle of a blackout!  Of course, a kitchen this large has many preparation tools not found in even a Chaîne member's home kitchen;  Henry Unger was noted lusting over a particularly efficient, double sided asparagus peeler.

    An Induction conducted on Saturday night by Regional Chambellan John Miller added a new member and officer to the Greensboro bailliage.

     The Saturday  Virginia Dinner was organized by our Triangle Bailliage and started with a champagne reception held with the Induction. The shrimp, crab and caviar starters went very well with the champagne and got dinner off to a good start.  The dinner introduced the other three bailliages to customs familiar to Triangle members - the vertical intermezzo and a mystery wine.  Guest (and soon to be member)  Adrian Taylor came closest to guessing the mystery wine, a 1998 Lopez d'Heredia Vina Cubillo crianza from Rioja.  Another custom to which other bailliages were introduced was Mel's Menus, this event being a noteworthy example. Click here to see it if you missed it.

Consummate Consommés at DuBose House

The DuBose House, now part of the University of North Carolina’s conference center in Chapel Hill, was the location for the first Triangle Bailliage event of the season on September 28, 2003. The three story, Georgian Revival mansion is one of only a few estates built in North Carolina in the 1930’s and was originally a family residence surrounded by 1200 acres of farmland. It displays construction details impossible to duplicate today such as wide board native walnut floors and provided an elegant dining atmosphere to complement a sophisticated menu.

     Consommés are traditional French cuisine, clear soups clarified by the use of eggs and/or filtration through sieves or cheesecloth. Chefs Brian Stapleton and James Reale prepared a menu that featured eight consommés flavored with vegetables, fruits or mushrooms plus local seasonal fruits, vegetables and cheese. Celebrity Dairy of Siler City, NC, in Chatham County not very far from DuBose House, makes goat cheeses while operating a low impact, sustainable agriculture farm and a bed and breakfast. The farm is open to visitors several times a year giving local residents the chance to see the complete operation from raising the goats to cheese making. The chefs used the goat cheese on walnut bread as one of the openers accompanied by a sparkling wine. Other local items on the menu included sweet potato, peppers and figs. The brown turkey fig variety that is so prominently in Thomas Jefferson’s gardens at Monticello grows very well in most of North Carolina, providing a sustained harvest of the sweet fruit The chefs served the figs with cheeses, port wine and a pear jelly consommé.

     The entire DuBose House was open for inspection and use during the event. In addition to the dining room, two different outside terraces were used for the reception and intermezzo while the expansive entry hall that spans the center width of the house was used to serve after dinner liqueurs.

     The Triangle Bailliage was pleased to welcome Chevalier Richard Groh of the Chicago Bailliage as a guest. Richard reported that he located the event using our website, www.chaineus.org/triangle.

     Our members have learned to expect sophistication, variety and precision service from the well-coordinated efforts of the University of North Carolina chefs and service team. Chefs Brian Stapleton and James Reale accepted another well-earned Chaîne award recognizing the teams’ efforts

June Is For Wine

                The Triangle Bailliage has ended each of the past several event seasons with a wine tasting coordinated by L’Ordre Mondial members and held at the home of one of our members. Chevalier Bob Warren and Pam Warren hosted this season’s event on June 14, 2003 event at their elegant home in Raleigh, NC.

                Chaîne members have a fascinating array of talents and events at members’ homes frequently prove to be an interesting and educational experience for other members. Bob and Pam not only showcased their kitchen talents but also created the laminated menus and provided a tour of their unique wine cellar and home.

                The event started with champagne served in the shade of the front lawn and a wine cellar tour. The Warren’s wine cellar may be the farthest south, fully passive cellar on the east coast that works properly. There are many well-designed private cellars in the Triangle area but all others use refrigeration because high soil temperatures and humidity in eastern North Carolina make constructing a true passive cellar a serious challenge. However, they have succeeded through careful execution after reading and consultation with Richard Gold, author of How and Why to Build a Wine Cellar. Bob’s explanation covered the many unusual construction details required to make a passive cellar work properly.

                Wines for the event were served on the deck overlooking the wooded rear slope of their property and included a selection of Italian whites and Spanish reds. L’Ordre Mondial members Gus Conley and Paul Winter provided wine commentary. The menu created for the event by Pam Warren offered a range of bold flavors, crisp textures, and colorful presentation that worked well with both the fruity wines and the warm spring afternoon. The unique courses provoked a flurry of inquiries about the recipes and preparation and left some of us left thinking about how we could incorporate the lessons learned into our own entertaining.

Rustic Country French at Vin Rouge

The often-delightful spring weather in North Carolina is one reason our state has received a large influx of folks from more northern areas. It also offers splendid opportunities for outdoor dining, so when the Triangle Bailliage convened at Maître Rôtisseur Giorgios Bakatsias’ Vin Rouge in Durham, NC on May 4, 2003, events began on the patio to take full advantage of a gorgeous spring day. During the eight course progression, Triangle diners moved back and forth between the bistro-like interior and the colorful patio.
    The theme of Country French Cuisine called for a menu of traditional dishes and an all-French wine selection. Chef Nadir Sherwani’s courses and Vice Echanson Gus Conley’s wine selections matched the requirements and each other very well, starting with highly seasoned crispy oysters and goat cheese paired with a crémant. Starters on the patio were accompanied by guitar selections while photographs were taken to help complete the members photo page on our website. For the three seafood and frogs’ leg courses, each paired with a different wine, Triangle diners moved inside. The sorbet intermezzo, served standing by Triangle tradition, found us once more on the patio. For the salad and meat courses, diners again moved inside, sampling two more wines. A well-seasoned potage de fruits, paired with a Sauternes, was served on the patio to complete the meal.
    It’s certainly impossible to cover all the wine regions in France by selections at a single dinner. However, by the end of the meal Triangle diners had completed a whirlwind tour, tasting eight examples representing the Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Alsace, Rhone, and Loire regions.
    Giorgios Bakatsias is known for catering to culinary trends. In addition to Vin Rouge, his company operates an array of some of the best places in the Triangle where he and Chef Nadir Sherwani have done previous Chaine events. Though the Vin Rouge kitchen has small stove and plating areas compared to some Chaine venues, the precisely timed service provided by Nadir, Sous Chef Leon Cedillo and Manager Adrian Szabo made that invisible to Triangle diners. Giorgios and Nadir both accepted awards from Bailli Mel Levine for the outstanding event made possible by the talented team at Vin Rouge.
 

Asia Fantasia at Pao Lim

        An annual ethnic dinner is part of the Triangle Bailliage tradition of providing variety and adventure in dining events. On March 2, 2003, Pao Lim in Durham, NC, provided the setting for Asia Fantasia featuring exotic, highly flavored dishes influenced by cuisine from India, Manchuria, Mongolia, Vietnam, Thailand, Japan and elsewhere.

        While diners assembled for the first course, Vice Chargé de Presse Paul Winter took photographs for a new page on the Triangle Bailliage website (Members) that shows couples with names.  This website feature was requested by several members and is one more use for the free website available to any Bailliage.  Several people, including Pam Whitney, Ellen Paulson and Dame Eliza Olander reflected the Asian theme for the dinner in their apparel choice.

        Pao Lim Owner/Chef Freddie Lee and Executive Chef Bernard Huang began their eight course, pan Asian tour with an Indian Delhi-cacy, grilled tandoori shrimp. The spicy heat of the shrimp was paired nicely with a sweet Japanese plum wine. Two white wines accompanied the next three courses that included a Japanese tease of tuna spring roll, a Laotian potion of mussels with garlic and Thai basil, and salt and pepper tempura scallop and calamari. Then, two red wines were served with a fit to be Thai-ed beef salad, epicurean Manchurian chicken and curried veal osso bucco with cous cous. Cardamom crème brulée matched with Château Rieussec, 1999 completed the evening feast.

        Throughout the meal, Triangle diners were treated to jazz selections played by Iajhi Hampden, Nick Slayton, and Albert Strong.

        In a break from our customary practice of serious gastronomic discussion, Chevalier Bill Powell provided a humorous commentary from the redneck viewpoint. Despite his assertions to the contrary, Bill can tell cous cous from grits!

        The evening finished with Chef Freddie Lee accepting a recognition plaque from Bailli Mel Levine while Triangle diners applauded the service staff for their diligent efforts. The variety of cuisine and service provided to Triangle diners showed why Pao Lim has become a local favorite.

Wine by Design at Carolina Inn

            The CrossRoads Restaurant, a true Southern jewel built in the historic Carolina Inn in Chapel Hill, was the setting for the first Triangle Bailliage event of the new year on January 19, 2003. The CrossRoads Restaurant holds multiple four star awards for service and cuisine that derive from the skill and diligence of Executive Chef Brian Stapleton, Manager Allal Kartaoui and the staff so Triangle Bailliage diners arrived with high expectations.
        The theme for the dinner was Wine by Design. In fact, the “design” was a challenge to Chef Brian to orchestrate courses to match a preselected group of wines, rather than the more common practice of picking wines to match the chef’s courses. Chef Brian, Executive Sous Chef Julian Harris, Chef de Cuisine Todd Dumke and staff met the challenge with an array of colorful courses that were excellent matches to the chosen wines. Seasonal ingredients and comfort foods were prominently featured as were the skills of the individual kitchen staff who took responsibility for specific courses.
        At some Triangle Bailliage dinners Le Vin Iconnu / Mystérieux (mystery wine) appears on the menu to baffle diners who are challenged to identify it. Though Vice Echanson Gus Conley had thrown a tough challenge at the group, Chevalier John Ward correctly identified the mystery wine as Vallado, 2000 from the Duoro region of Portugal. It is not a mystery why Chevalier Ward serves on the bailliage committee that plans wine tastings!
            Discussion of Chef Brian’s courses was led by Bailli Mel Levine, Maître Rôtisseur Daniel Schurr and Chef Bo Perkins who noted that the CrossRoads team had pulled off the difficult feat of preparing and getting to the table, for a large group, a properly light quenelle. Because the base of the quenelle is egg whites, cream, and lemon juice, it is inherently “fragile” so challenges everyone involved in its preparation and service.
        Dame Marion Robboy led a toast to the “next day” birthdays of our Bailli and Chevalier Bryan Guarnieri.
Chef Brian and Manager Allal introduced their staffs, including Sommelier Thomas Thorne, to rounds of applause. The evening finished with Chef Brian accepting another well-deserved Chaîne recognition award for the CrossRoads team.
 

Fowl Play at Second Empire

           The Second Empire in Raleigh provided a warm and elegant setting for the fifteenth Triangle Bailliage induction on Nov 17, 2002. Built in the 124 year old Dodd-Hinsdale house a few blocks from the North Carolina capitol, the restaurant’s name originates from its second empire Victorian architecture. Owner Kim Reynolds, Executive Chef Daniel Schurr, and staff hosted a memorable event that included Chef Daniel’s induction by Bailli Délégué Brooks Firestone.
          Festivities started in the Second Empire Tavern whose brick walls and ample space provided a warm ambiance. Starters were served while demonstrating the new Triangle Bailliage website (www.chaineus.org/triangle) made possible by the national organization’s web hosting service.
          Bailli Délégué Brooks Firestone demonstrated his energy by arriving directly from another Chaîne event in Arizona to perform the induction ceremony. After setting what may be a world record for a black-tie change, he found our fifteen prospective members “worthy” and inducted them with a steady sword in the prescribed manner. Five new professional members joined the Triangle Bailliage and the entire staff of the Second Empire turned out to applaud Chef Daniel’s induction as Maître Rôtisseur.
          The evening menu theme was “Fowl Play”, featuring five types of birds. The fowl night took flight with a cream of roasted fowl soup followed by a pleasant pheasant. Then, a smidgeon of pigeon preceded the intermezzo sorbet. Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Walter Royal, who had donned his whites to have some fun with Second Empire Sous Chef Garland Poole and staff, noted that the Second Empire kitchen crew was having such a good time that we might have difficulty getting him “out front” at future events. Chicken ballotine and guinea hen pot pie in the sky completed the fowl courses. After saying bye-bye to the birdies, a warm ginger bread pudding was served for dessert. Wines for the evening included Rhone and Bordeaux reds that were drinking perfectly with Chef Daniel’s well-flavored dishes.
          The large turnout of members and guests proved that Second Empire has become a Triangle Bailliage favorite. General Manager Scott Love and the entire staff of the Second Empire received well-deserved applause for the superb event that their camaraderie and team effort made possible.
 

Triangle Flies Into 15^th Year in Duck, NC

The Triangle Bailliage got a flying start to its fifteenth season on September 13-15, 2002 with a luxury getaway at the Sanderling Inn located on the Outer Banks, 5 miles north of Duck, NC. The Sanderling, hosting its first Chaine event, is built just behind the dune in the low-rise, cedar shingled style that is traditional for coastal North Carolina and even incorporates a former lifesaving station into one of its two restaurants. Its rooms provided a fabulous view of the Atlantic sunrise.

Triangle visitors took full advantage of the beach, spa, and resort facilities by biking, golfing, swimming, beachcombing, and getting relaxing massages. Some extended their stay to enjoy more of the Outer Banks excellent September weather that did not include snow or ice despite the inaccurate included image indicating inclemency.

Official festivities started Friday night in Duck with an Outer Banks Indian Summer Soiree at the Blue Point Restaurant of Chef Sam McGann and John Power.  Starters were served on the restaurant deck while viewing a gorgeous sunset over the smooth waters of Currituck Sound. Local ingredients such as Currituck peaches, Carolina shrimp, and Virginia veal were on full display in Chef McGann’s colorful presentations. Currituck yellow peaches ripen in very late summer unlike most peaches that are ripe before mid summer. Carolina shrimp have a sweeter, more intense flavor and firmer texture than shrimp shipped from other areas. Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Walter Royal led a discussion that focused on the outstanding quality and availability of the ingredients used. 

Saturday was a day for informal activities capped by a black-tie Seafood Extravaganza by Chef de Cuisine Bo Perkins at the Sanderling’s Left Bank restaurant. Starters were potato blini with osetra caviar and red onion crème fraiche, and citrus-cured Atlantic salmon with soft egg en brioche, paired with Montaudon Brut, N.V., Champagne. Six seafood courses matched with French wines followed. After the first three spectacular courses with white wines, the traditional Triangle Bailliage Vertical Intermezzo featured a grapefruit and star anise sorbet in a unique spoon presentation.   It is customary at Triangle Bailliage events to serve the intermezzo sorbet standing, giving diners a chance to stretch their legs and socialize. This typically requires using both hands, an issue neatly avoided when Chef Perkins presented the sorbet on a single spoon with the handle bent into a ring shape. Impressed by the ranges of flavors and presentations in the first courses, Triangle diners were further rewarded by two seafood courses served with red wines. The availability of a Carolina favorite, striped bass, has increased due to conservation measures and the fact that it is one of a few species that can be successfully farmed. Chef Perkins delighted the group with a presentation of pan-roasted striped bass with a celery root puree, white truffle leeks and a black truffle nage, served with Domaine Lejuene Les Poutoures Pommard 1er Cru. The final seafood course was yellowfin tuna with foie gras, potato pave and bordelaise sauce, accompanied by Chateau de Beaucastel, 1997. Dessert, coffee and Fonseca Vintage Port 1975 closed out the evening feast. All applauded Maitre de Table Scott Brewton, Chef De Cuisine Bo Perkins, Restaurant Manager Lynette Sumner, Sous-Chef Rob Robinson, Assistant General Manager Jeff Metcalf and the staff of the Left Bank for a memorable event that included highly polished service, all accomplished in a restaurant that has been open for only a few months!

           North Carolina’s Outer Banks, where warm Gulf Stream and cold-water counter currents meet over a shallow bottom to produce dangerous seas, are famous for shipwrecks that were so common in the era of sail that U.S. Lifesaving Stations were established along the coast. Those stations were crewed by hardy men who often rowed into treacherous surf to make rescues. Modern technology and the Coast Guard eliminated the stations but The Sanderling has converted one into its casual restaurant. Triangle visitors took advantage of the breakfast menu at the Sanderling Lifesaving Station, many using an excellent late Sunday breakfast to ease the transition to our normal weekday pursuit.

Remember, a selection of photos and menus can be seen in  Galleries/Menus.

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